Each wave you face is the same
and each one different.
The same in how it looks,
the whiteness of it’s crest,
the deep cerulean of its shadow.
Different in where it breaks on the body,
one just below the knee,
the next just above,
sending an unexpected joy
of cold shock through the groin
and into the brain,
causing you to lift your weight
onto the balls of your feet,
making it feel as if you are lighter.
There is a sudden intake of air to fill lungs
which have become suddenly larger.